I'll start with a whine--where I live is currently covered in smoke, which has wreaked havoc with my ability to sleep (not to mention my ability to go outside).
But I managed to get enough Zs last night to take a shot at finding layout software (instead of using Word, because 1. I don't use Word or Windows any more, yay! and 2. I wanted to be more efficient). I was very pleasantly surprised to discover Scribus, which is free(!), and which at least looks like it's suitable for book layouts. DJ Mills actually did a series of blog posts about using the software, so that should be useful.
I guess that's the upside of waiting so long between books--software tends to get cheaper, and what used to be used only by a relative handful of full-time book designers is now used by many more self-published writers!
ETA: I have laid out a chapter! Complete with an illustration and chapter ornaments! Scribus is a little fiddly, and the supporting documentation is hardly well written, but it's much less fiddly than Word, and of course the price is right. Yay!